New York–style cooked sauce

Drain the can over a bowl and keep the juice. Pinch off the stem ends, squeeze out the seeds, and crush the tomatoes by hand into a coarse pulp, adding juice back until it is loose enough to simmer. Heat the olive oil in a saucepan over medium. Add the garlic and cook 30 seconds until fragrant (do not brown). Add the tomatoes, salt, oregano, sugar, and optional red pepper. Simmer uncovered 15–20 min, stirring occasionally, until reduced by about a quarter. Let it cool before spreading it on the dough. Keeps refrigerated 5 days, frozen 3 months.